The Influence of Baroque Fashion in a Modern World
First in a series examining the historical influence of fashion on modern trends
The Baroque period, roughly spanning from 1600-1750 was a powerful era where every outfit, accessory, and shoe was wrapped in a statement of power and luxury. Characterized by intricate embroidery, opulent fabrics and dramatic silhouettes, it’s no surprise that this era is partially defined by the high influence of the Catholic Church, and the structures that be within absolute monarchists.
High patrons of the arts were enlisted to do grand portraits of the lives of royalty and their courts, making the desire for a grandiose outfits even more prevalent. Perhaps the most influential designer of this period was Jean-Baptiste Martin, the court dressmaker to Louis XIV.
His (both Jean-Baptiste Martin and The King) influence can be seen in the defining pieces of the time: brocade fabrics, elaborate lace collars and of course, the corset. A wise man who turned his designs into political statements; his fashion becoming a mirror reflect the power of monarchies and the church.
The romantic and deeply feminine aesthetic of this era is still highly prominent to this day, seen on runways across the world. The peculiar juxtaposition, however, is that all of the modern expressions of Baroque are almost all positioned to and for women. In our modern times, the styles that once intoxicating to the male gaze, for the male gaze, has now been almost completely rewritten.
I find it fascinating to think if a man wore this in our current day and age, he would have to accept the fact that most would see this style as dainty, fragile, utterly non-masculine. Where in fact, it was men who first fell in love with the opulence, intricacy and careful curation of this genre, excluding corsets, of course.
I supposed now, you could make the case that the most “current” way to express the type of wealth, class and opulence that captured the Baroque period would be the new obsession with “quiet luxury”. The polar opposite positioning, yet expressing the exact same idea. How paradoxically human!
While the Baroque fashion has not yet re-entered the current zietgeist of men’s fashion, it is highly prevalent in women’s. My favorite example is, without a doubt, Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2024 Couture Show, with makeup by Pat McGrath:
Perhaps this is my favorite because of the exquisite layering, or maybe it is the perfect gloss that turns human into doll. Maybe its the way the lace moves around, as if possessed, or the way I cant take my eyes off of every single ornate detail. It’s a haunted longing for a time we dont know, but desperately want to live inside. It feels almost otherworldly, like something from a mythic quest, or a fairytale.
I think thats the reason we still see this period echoed over and over again through time; it allows us a portal into a realm that has captivated our imagination.
Schiaparelli – Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023
Exaggerated, sculptural elements and silhouettes are very evocative of the Baroque period’s key elements. The heavy use of gold, highly ornamental and detailed works of the animal busts are surreal and luxurious.
The Met Gala 2018: “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination”
This is one of the most avert expressions of Baroque art and fashion in modern times, highlighting the symbolism and opulence the Catholic Church held in this era. Inspired by stained glass, royal crowns, and grandeur to the most lavish extent.
House of the Dragon (2022-Present)
The costume design of this entire show is heavily influences by the high and mighty powers that were in the Baroque era. It feels dynastic, drawing one back to a time of aristocratic fashion and influence of money, power and glory.
Vivienne Westwood – Baroque-Inspired Fashion
Westwood has frequently looked to historical periods, including the Baroque, for inspiration in her designs. Her use of corsetry, voluminous skirts, and decadent fabrics espress this era well, while incorporating her vision through a punk lens. Her designs are an homage to, and a critique of the excess found in dynastic periods of time where the everyday person felt suppressed inside of their own expression.
Personally, I find the Baroque fabulous.
I enjoy finding the opulence in everyday life, even if you have to bring it into reality yourself. There is a certain captivation with this kind of femininity, one that I find so exciting and happy.
It makes me think, or rather, daydream, of the blissful weight of a thousand pearls, a 23-inch waist, wrapped with love, a gloved hand embracing a chilled martini…
In the style of the Baroque icon Marie Antionette, I’m off to have some cake.
With fabulous aesthetic,
Alexandra Diana, The A List