The Realm of Rococo
When playful luxury defined the French court
Second in a series examining the historical influence of fashion on modern trends
Occurring alongside the early Enlightenment in 18th century France, Rococo fashion flourished at the hands of the aristocracy. Towering wigs, opulent jewels and larger-than-life gowns transformed court life into a spectacle of luxury. Each detail perfectly crafted to symbolize status and refinement; an age where everyday attire was turned into a display of artistic mastery.
Unlike the religious and dramatic themes of the Baroque, Rococo emphasized secular pleasures, mythology, and the playful aspects of human nature. It’s lighter and more whimsical than Baroque, while still remaining opulent, intricate and highly feminine.
Women adorned themselves with elaborate hats, lace gloves, fans and parures.
Hair was high to the gods, styled with feathers, jewels, even preciously small objects.
Most notably was Rose Bertin, Marie Antoinette’s personal dressmaker, who used fanciful lace and opulence to broke the traditional rules of the time. She transformed the idea of high fashion into something that feels more poetic, more emotionally evocative.
One of the most iconic gowns of the Rococo period, The robe à la française was defined by fitted fronts, loose pleats at the back (known as “Watteau pleats”), and wide skirts — an epitome of French court elegance.
Men’s habit à la française featured knee-length breeches, waistcoats, and frock coats, often heavily embroidered and adorned with lace. Men also adorned powdered wigs, which were styled in curls or queues. Très magnifique!
In modern day, Rococo’s opulence has been used as inspiration in the realm of high fashion. My favorite examples are the following:
Christian Dior Haute Couture F/W, 2023
Opulent embroidery, soft pastel and delicate lace bring Rococo’s romance to life. The collections luxury and lightness embodies this era’s spirit, transforming historical artistry into a modern-day masterpiece.
Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture
Roseberry’s work at Schiaparelli often draws from surrealism and history, and his Fall 2023 Couture showcases Rococo beautifully. Rich golds and creams, corsets galore, appliqués, and pearls, all striking the perfect balance of theater and luxury. Compared to the Baroque-influenced designs we saw in the first part of this series, the evolution to Rococo is clear in the collections playful elegance.
Giambattista Valli Fall 2023 Couture
The romance of this collection radiates high Rococo: a poetic array of pastels, tulle ball gowns, ruffled details, each piece echoes the whimsy and lightness of 18th-century luxury, a true nod to Rococo’s playful charm.
Can’t you imagine yourself at the French court, corseted tight, sipping tea in a grand salon while musicians play in the background? Adorned in silk, feathers, and lace, you move gracefully through the opulent halls, thrilled to spend the afternoon attending a masked ball, or perhaps a flirtatious walk in the gardens after paying a round of cards in the salon.
The charm of Rococo lies in its paradox: Playful and light, yet meticulously crafted—a world where every detail is curated to create an illusion of effortless elegance. The extravagance, the pageantry, the constant pursuit of beauty—it was a fantasy world, as indulgent as it was ephemeral, where fashion was art and life was a performance.
As Louis XIV said almost 300 years ago, "Fashion is the mirror of history." As time turns and we find ourselves cinching up our corsets once more, we watch as past and present meet in a seamless thread of style.
With great personal aesthetic,
Alexandra Diana, The A List